Planning tool 4 of 4
Will 100 amps still carry the house afterwards?
Most Bozeman houses built before 1970 have a service sized for a different century. The arithmetic that decides whether yours needs upgrading is public, and it takes two minutes.
NEC 220.82 optional calculation
- General lighting and receptacles, 3 VA per sq ft
- 5,700 VA
- Two small-appliance circuits plus laundry
- 4,500 VA
- Fixed appliance nameplate total
- 8,900 VA
- General load before demand factor
- 19,100 VA
- After demand: first 10 kVA at 100%, rest at 40%
- 13,640 VA
- No electric climate load
- 0 VA
- Total calculated load
- 13,640 VA
Appliances counted
- Electric dryer5,000 VA
- Dishwasher1,440 VA
- Disposal960 VA
- Built-in microwave1,500 VA
Indicative only. Nameplate ratings vary by model and a licensed electrician runs the real calculation against your actual equipment. An upgrade also means reconnected circuits have to meet current AFCI and GFCI requirements.
The question comes up on almost every site walk, usually phrased as a hope. We are not changing much electrically, so we probably do not need to touch the panel, do we? Sometimes the answer is no. More often the house has been living at the edge of its capacity for a decade, and the renovation is what pushes it over.
The National Electrical Code gives an optional calculation for dwellings in Article 220 Part IV. It is simple enough to do at a kitchen table, and running it against the appliances you are planning to buy, rather than the ones you own, is the single most useful thing you can do before choosing a range.
How the calculation works
Add the general lighting and receptacle load at 3 volt-amps per square foot of conditioned area. Add two small-appliance branch circuits at 1,500 volt-amps each and a laundry circuit at another 1,500. Add the nameplate rating of every fixed appliance.
Then apply the demand factor, which acknowledges that nobody runs everything at once: 100 percent of the first 10,000 volt-amps and 40 percent of the remainder. Finally add the larger of the heating or the cooling load at 100 percent, because those two never run at the same time. Divide by 240 volts and you have the demand in amps.
The pattern this produces
| House | Area | Heating | Cooking | Calculated demand |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1948 bungalow, unrenovated | 1,450 sq ft | Gas furnace | Gas range | 58 A |
| Same house, renovated | 1,450 sq ft | Gas furnace | Induction and double oven | 84 A |
| 1978 ranch plus addition | 2,600 sq ft | Gas furnace | Induction range | 97 A |
| Same, with a heat pump | 2,600 sq ft | Air source heat pump | Induction range | 131 A |
Scroll the table sideways to see every column.
Sample calculations using the optional method. Your figures depend on actual nameplate ratings.
Signals you are already at the limit
- A panel with no empty spaces and tandem breakers filling the slots that exist
- A 60, 100 or 125 amp main on a house that has been extended or gained electric appliances
- Lights dimming noticeably when the well pump or the air conditioner starts
- A fuse box rather than a breaker panel, or a panel brand insurers now flag
- Aluminium branch circuit wiring from the mid-1960s to mid-1970s, which is a safety issue separate from capacity
What an upgrade actually involves
Replacing the service entrance conductors, the meter base, the main panel and the grounding electrode system. On an overhead service the utility drops and reconnects the service; on an underground service there is usually trenching, which is where the days go.
Inside, every circuit reconnected to the new panel has to meet current protection requirements. Bedrooms, living areas, kitchens and laundry need AFCI protection; kitchens, bathrooms, laundry, garages, basements and exterior receptacles need GFCI. You cannot simply move forty old circuits across unchanged, which is why this work belongs in the rough-in phase while the walls are open.
Questions
About this tool
No. It increases capacity. It does not repair undersized neutrals, knob-and-tube in the walls or aluminium conductors at the receptacles. Those are separate scopes with separate prices, and an inspector standing in front of a new panel will look at the whole picture.
Because it is scheduled rather than on demand. In our experience the gap between requesting the disconnect and getting it is the least predictable item in an electrical scope, so we build a buffer into the schedule rather than promise a date we do not control.
No. Plenty of houses are perfectly served by 100 or 150 amps, and oversizing costs money for nothing. The calculation tells you which you are, and adding an EV charger or a heat pump later is the usual reason to go to 200.
No. Service work is permitted and inspected everywhere we operate, and unpermitted electrical work voids insurance claims and shows up at resale. We pull it in our name and a licensed electrician does the work.
The other three
Load path and footings
Trace an addition's weight from the roof to the soil, and size the pad that catches it.
OpenBasement egress and moisture
Check an opening against the five code numbers, and read what the water is doing.
OpenFloor height and transitions
Stack up the subfloor, underlayment and finish before you order, not after.
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